Search for Anti-roll bar link rear and front:
Anti roll bar links for automobile
- Car Control arm
- Car Wheel hub
- Car Wheel bearing
- Car Drive shaft
- Car Cv joint
- Car Suspension ball joint
- Car Gearbox oil and transmission fluid
- Car Wishbone bushes
- Car Automatic transmission fluid
- Car Control arm repair kit
- Car Steering knuckle
- Car Anti-roll bar bushes
- Car Drive shaft coupling
- Car Wheel spacers
- Car Axle bushes
- Car Cv boot
- Car Wheel bolts and wheel nuts
- Car Anti roll bar
- Car Wheel nuts
- Car Propshaft
- Car Differential
- Car Subframe
Choose your car and find high-quality Drop links
- TOYOTA
- Sway bar link for YARIS
- AVENSIS
- RAV 4
- VOLVO
- Sway bar link for XC60
- XC 90
- V70
- MINI
- Hatchback
- COUNTRYMAN
- CLUBMAN
- LAND ROVER
- RANGE ROVER
- DISCOVERY
- FREELANDER
Information - Sway bar link
In most cars in the front suspension there is located stabilizer bar. It looks like a little curved transverse steel rod, whose ends are usually attached directly to the lower control arm. However, some cars have a part, called pendulum support, which provides connection between stabilizer and suspension arm. If using technical vocabulary stabilizer bar is a torsion bar, which prevents the excessive body roll when cornering. It performs this function by twisting. The ends of the part are fixed to the unsprung masses.
If it is impossible to fix the stabilizer with the help of a clamp, pendulum support is used. The stabilizer in this case can be installed higher in order not to reduce ground clearance. Pendulum support is responsible for comfort driving at low speed and slow cornering. When you do not hear any knock in the area of this part, then everything is OK. But if there is a knock, the pendulum support must be replaced. It is important to replace the faulty pendulum support as it can result in a serious accident. Moreover, it is required regularly to check this car part. The problem may not even to be evident with a quiet ride. It becomes apparent in most cases only when a sharp turn.
New original part will save car owners from any problems when installing it. Also, it will provide safe driving. If you select an analogue of the original part, there is no guarantee that the pendulum support will last for a long time. Nobody recommends saving on parts quality, whether you need a shock absorber, brake discs or thermostat. If you want to save on car parts, then visit our online shop and select the necessary part. Its price will be far lower than in other shops, but they will be of the highest quality.
What you need to know about stabilizer link replacement: lifetime limits, common defects and their signs, tips and recommendations
Average service life of the stabilizer link is 30 000 – 50 000 operational kilometers. Lifetime limit of the component depends on road conditions where the car is used and on individual driving style.
Often the stabilizer rod needs replacement because of faulty pivot fastenings. Another common cause for replacement is ball joint stud housing breakdown which leads to its breakage and free movement of the link.
Common signs which point at defects on the front or rear stabilizer link are rattling when driving over obstacles, increased body roll at cornering, worsening road-holding ability, body swaying when accelerating or slowing down.
In order to perform diagnostics of the front or rear stabilizer rod on your own, try to sway the car to and fro. If components are serviceable, it will be difficult to do. When checking, pay attention to dust boot condition: if there are cracks or other damages on it, there’s a risk that the link is likely to break down because of abrasive wear. For more exact diagnostics it is recommended to contact a service station because defects of the stabilizer link are not always noticeable with the naked eye.
In order to replace the component you need to fix the car with the help of the parking brake and set onto a lift platform, then fix the half-axle with the hexagon drive and unscrew fastenings from the stabilizer link. Demount the broken down component, clean the seat, install a new stabilizer link and assemble everything in the reverse order.
It is recommended to replace stabilizer links in pairs on one axle. You should also monitor the condition of bushes and stabilizer mounts. It is better to entrust component replacement works to service station specialists because such works require special skills.
How to replace stabilizer links?
It is easy to replace the stabilizer bar links yourself if you have elementary skills. The algorithm of actions for replacement of the front and rear links is similar. Usually, works sequence is the following:
- Lift the parking brake lever.
- Loosen the bolts or nuts that fasten the wheels.
- Lift corresponding car axle with the help of a jack.
- Demount the wheels.
- Put safety jack stands under the wheel arms or under the body.
- Demount fastening of the stabilizer links with the help of suitable tools. Attachment of the links to the stabilizer or other suspension elements may be performed with the help of rubbers, joints, threaded connection, combination of bush and joint, etc.
- Install new parts.
There is no necessity to adjust wheels alignment angles after installation of the components. But if you have no corresponding experience and skills, it will be proper to entrust replacement to professionals.
Which stabilizer links are better to select?
The stabilizer links should be selected taking car technical requirements and its operation conditions into account. For example, metal links are designated for higher loads, but they can break down quickly due to corrosion in conditions of moist climate. Links made of polymer material are more apt to mechanical damages, that is why they can break more often than the metal ones in conditions of poor-quality roads. To make the components serve you for long, give preference to products of famous companies, such as A.B.S., Delphi, Febi Bilstein, Fortune Line, Mapco, Metzger, Sasic, Meyle, Monroe, Ridex, Moog, Ruville, Stark Professional Line, Topran, Triscan, TRW, Vaico, Swag and other.
How to check operability of stabilizer links?
- Stabilizer links operability can be checked by a few methods. Firstly, turn the steering wheel to the stop, grab the stabilizer link with your hand and try to shake it up. If you feel free play during this, the component should be replaced. This method is suitable only for the front stabilizer links. Wheels should be demounted for check of the rear ones.
- In some cars, due to their construction peculiarities, access to mounting location of the unit from the wheel arch side is troubled. In this case, you need to set the car on a lifting platform, demount the wheel, loosening the nuts or bolts fastening the wheel in advance, unscrew upper fixations of the stabilizer link and shake the mechanism. Excessively easy travel of the joint or too high gap between its components indicate breakdown of the part. Operability of the fasteners can be checked by trying to shake the link with the help of materials at hand, for example, a crowbar.
Which signs can detect defectiveness of stabilizer links?
Defectiveness of the stabilizer links can be detected by a series of indirect signs. The most common of them are: knocks in the front or rear suspension, which increase during irregularities overrunning, skids of the vehicle during high-speed driving, inclinations from set turn radius, body rolls, and excessive swaying of the car during braking. If you found any of these signs, inspect the links visually: the surface of parts should have no corrosion and damages. After this, inspect joint connection of the unit for free play. It is necessary to replace the component at finding even a slight gap.
Best goods: Anti roll bar links front and rear
- Fitting Position: Front axle both sides
- Rod/Strut: Coupling Rod
- Length [mm]: 74
- External Thread 2 [mm]: M8x1,25
- Weight [kg]: 0,11
- Condition: New
- Fitting Position: Front Axle Left, Front Axle Right
- Rod/Strut: Coupling Rod
- Length [mm]: 249
- Thread Size 1: M10x1,25
- Thread Size 2: M10x1,25
- Supplementary Article / Supplementary Info: with spanner attachment
- Condition: New
- Fitting Position: Front axle both sides
- Rod/Strut: Coupling Rod
- Length [mm]: 93,5
- Material: Steel
- External Thread [mm]: M8 x 1,25
- Spanner Size: 13
- Condition: New
- Fitting Position: Front axle both sides
- Rod/Strut: Suspension Rod
- Length [mm]: 336
- Material: Steel
- Thread Size: MM12X1.5 RHT
- Weight [kg]: 0,49
- Diameter [mm]: 8
- Condition: New
- Fitting Position: Front Axle Left
- Rod/Strut: Coupling Rod
- Length [mm]: 330
- Material: Steel
- Thread Size 1: MM10X1.5R
- Condition: New
- Fitting Position: Front Axle, both sides
- Rod/Strut: Suspension Rod
- Length [mm]: 280
- Thread Size: M10x1,5
- Supplementary Article / Supplementary Info: with accessories
- Condition: New
- Fitting Position: Front axle both sides
- Rod/Strut: Coupling Rod
- Length [mm]: 270
- Material: Steel
- External Thread [mm]: M10 x 1,5
- Weight [kg]: 0,332
- Condition: New
- Fitting Position: Front Axle Right, Front Axle Left
- Rod/Strut: Coupling Rod
- Length [mm]: 243
- Base body material: Steel
- Condition: New
- Fitting Position: Front axle both sides
- Rod/Strut: Coupling Rod
- Length [mm]: 283,5
- Thread Size 1: MM10X1,5R
- Condition: New
- Fitting Position: Front Axle
- Rod/Strut: Coupling Rod
- Length [mm]: 300
- Thread Size: M12x1,5/M12x1,5
- Braking/Drive Dynamics: for vehicles without electronic drive dynamics control
- Condition: New
- Fitting Position: Front axle both sides
- Rod/Strut: Coupling Rod
- Length [mm]: 260
- Material: Steel
- Thread Size 1: M12X1.5
- Thread Size 2: M12X1.5
- Thread Type: with right-hand thread
- Diameter 3 [mm]: 10
- Packing Type: Box
- Condition: New
- Fitting Position: Front Axle, Front Axle Left, Front Axle Right
- Rod/Strut: Coupling Rod
- Length [mm]: 335
- Thread Size 1: M12x1,5
- Thread Size 2: M12x1,5
- Pipe Ø [mm]: 10
- Fabrication Number: ZLP-VW-003
- Condition: New